La Lucha channels chef Ford Fry’s memories of the old San Jacinto Inn into a spirited Heights restaurant built around Gulf seafood and fried chicken. Oysters, peel-and-eat shrimp, blue crab, fried shrimp, tacos, biscuits, and a juicy burger give groups plenty of ways to assemble a feast, while cold beer and bright cocktails keep the mood relaxed. The broad dining room and patio handle brunch or dinner equally well, and the menu’s sense of nostalgia never becomes precious.