Xochi explores the food of Oaxaca through moles, masa, wood-fired cooking, chocolate, mezcal, and regional ingredients rarely gathered on one Houston menu. Chef Hugo Ortega's dining room works for adventurous brunches and polished dinners alike, with plates designed for tasting across the table. Order contrasting moles or a tlayuda, then let dessert prove how complex cacao can be. Xochi is best with a table willing to order widely, trade bites, and linger through one more course.